Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (1927-2004) was the most internationally celebrated Swedish silversmith of the post war period. Using assymetric, fluid forms in silver combined with semi-precious stones and pebbles, she created jewellery that broke with tradition. Her hand-made jewellery from the early 1950s became an instant success in Paris where she lived at the time. She earned clients such as Pablo Picasso, Brigitte Bardot, Ingrid Bergman and Billie Holiday, all fascinated by her innovative designs of sculptural forms tracing the contours of the wearer's body.
In the mid 1950s she started a long relationship with the company Georg Jensen. Like her, Georg Jensen originally created his jewellery for people who valued the beauty and the design of handcrafted objects more than luxurious materials. Torun used rock crystal, moonstone and quartz instead of more valuable stones. Torun designed Jensen's first wrist watch in 1962. This today world famous model was the first of its kind, a simple, open-sided wrist watch with a numberless mirror dial, stripped of all but the bare essentials.
During the 1960s Torun lived in Biot, France. She installed her workshop in the family villa and employed several assistants. During these years she achieved many commissions and was extremely productive. Many young Swedish silversmiths came to Biot to work with Torun. Her home was also a meeting point for contemporary artists, intellectuals and jazz musicians.
In 1978 Torun set up a new workshop in Indonesia. There, she undertook a wide range of projects including textiles, baskets and lamps, while continuing to create jewellery. She lived in Jakarta until her death. She received numerous design awards during her long career and exhibited all over the world for over 50 years.